Normandy
Day 6 Tues. 9-14-10
“Manoir Guerin” Bayeux
We were up early, and somehow managed to survive the train station - Gare St Lazare. It was an absolute zoo with 1,000's of unsmiling people pushing and moving in one direction, with the four of us struggling to make our way, with our steamer trunks, in the opposite direction uugghhhh... We caught our train to Bayeux, along with our 100 pounds of luggage, and arrived in Bayeux around noon time. We had to wait about 20 minutes in a taxi line, then arrived at Manoir Guerin, the Gites we were staying in for three nights. We were greeted by Isabelle, who owns the property with her husband Francois who was to be our guide the next day. It was a beautiful Gite in the center of town. Our rooms were not ready when we arrived, so we went and had lunch, then when we returned, our rooms were ready. We accessed our rooms via a circular old staircase. After we settled in, we headed off to see the Bayeux tapestry which is an amazing 225 foot long embroidered tapestry that tells the story of William the Conquerer. Next we headed to the Bayeux Notre Dame cathedral, which to me was as beautiful, if not more so than the cathedral in Paris. We then walked about town, then headed back for our cocktail wines. We walked around the corner from our Gite for dinner. I will say, some of my favorite things about France is that you can get a decent bottle of red wine for about 3 euros, a wheel of cheese for about 2 euros, and loaf a bread for a 1 euro, and voila – my fantasy meal. We are talking feast here for about 6 eruos, or the price of one glass of wine in the states - now that is hard to beat !
Day 6 Tues. 9-14-10
“Manoir Guerin” Bayeux
We were up early, and somehow managed to survive the train station - Gare St Lazare. It was an absolute zoo with 1,000's of unsmiling people pushing and moving in one direction, with the four of us struggling to make our way, with our steamer trunks, in the opposite direction uugghhhh... We caught our train to Bayeux, along with our 100 pounds of luggage, and arrived in Bayeux around noon time. We had to wait about 20 minutes in a taxi line, then arrived at Manoir Guerin, the Gites we were staying in for three nights. We were greeted by Isabelle, who owns the property with her husband Francois who was to be our guide the next day. It was a beautiful Gite in the center of town. Our rooms were not ready when we arrived, so we went and had lunch, then when we returned, our rooms were ready. We accessed our rooms via a circular old staircase. After we settled in, we headed off to see the Bayeux tapestry which is an amazing 225 foot long embroidered tapestry that tells the story of William the Conquerer. Next we headed to the Bayeux Notre Dame cathedral, which to me was as beautiful, if not more so than the cathedral in Paris. We then walked about town, then headed back for our cocktail wines. We walked around the corner from our Gite for dinner. I will say, some of my favorite things about France is that you can get a decent bottle of red wine for about 3 euros, a wheel of cheese for about 2 euros, and loaf a bread for a 1 euro, and voila – my fantasy meal. We are talking feast here for about 6 eruos, or the price of one glass of wine in the states - now that is hard to beat !
Day 7, Wed. 9-15-10 “Manoir Guerin” Bayeux Awoke to a fabulous breakfast prepared by Isabelle, then off on our tour of the Normandy D-day beaches with Francois. We started at the American cemetery. To say that it was inspirational, is an understatement. Francois was able to bring both the history of the day, 6-6-44, as well as the entire war to life for us. Francois had a great passion for history, and the events that took place, so one could not help but be enthralled as he talked with us about the area and events. Following the American cemetery, we went to Omaha beach, then to Point du Hoc, then onto Utah beach, followed by a tour of Saint Mere Eglise where the airborne division landed in gliders. Also in Mere Eglise was the church where one of the parachuters got stuck on the chapel as depicted in the movie the “Longest Day.” The Americans were the first to land followed by the British on Gold Beach, the Canadians on Juno beach, then the British on Sword beach. The amount of planning and organization that went into such a massive mission was amazing, the loss of life overwhelming. It was surreal to see the beaches, see the garrets, see Point du Hoc and the cliffs the men had to climb while being mowed down by the German forces - it is haunting. We arrived back late - picked up our rental car, then got back to our Gite to watch a bicycle race in town, no Tour de France - but fun anyway to watch. The French love their bicycles – they are everywhere ! We had our wine in the “parlor” then off to dinner nearby again.
Day 8, Thurs 9-16-10 Manior Guerin Bayeux We headed out on our own in our car for the day after another great “Isabelle” breakfast. We headed to the coast and toured all the small beach towns en route to Honfleur including Riva Bella and my favorite little town called Houlgate. The towns were all very quiet with very little tourists because it was off season, but I could imagine how busy it would be during high season ! We arrived in Honfleur about 3:00 PM and ate lunch on the harbor. Honfleur was a beautiful town with little winding cobblestone streets, shops, and cafes situated all the way around the harbor. After lunch we walked around for a bit and then headed back to our Gite and arrived home about 6:30PM to our usual routine - wine then out to dinner. We ate at the “Paris Café” and had a really great meal. We were seated next to a couple from Britain and the gentleman was telling us that he was a a socialist mayor of a town in Britain - you can imagine where this conversation went .....
Day 9, Fri. Sept. 17, 2010 “Auberge St. Pierre” Mont St Michel
Up early with another wonderful breakfast by Isabelle including a fresh baked pear tart - delish. We bid our farewells to Isabelle and Francois, then headed off on our drive from Normandy toward Brittany. We took a scenic route where we detoured to the coast of Normandy first touring through a little seaside town named Cancale whose specialty is oysters and mussels. Next onto St. Malo, a seaside town known for sailing and pirates. We ate lunch on the harbor at a cafe, then drove to Le Mont St Michel. Mont St Michel has quite a history including being used as an Abbey, a fortress and even a prison. It also believed to have been visited by Archangel Michael, the chief of the angels. We kept getting glimpses of the Mont, but the actual arrival was really something. We had to park quite a ways away, but we had all packed small overnight bag so we did not have to haul our luggage. We noticed some kind of activity including staging bleachers outside of the entrance to the Mont. On check in to the hotel we learned they were having the opera, Carmen, there tonight with lit up Mont as the back drop. We checked in around 3:00 PM. Our room is small but looks out at one of the rampart walls and we have direct access out a back door to the ramparts. We then walked around for several hours, and watched the crowds dwindle as they all left. We watched some omelettes being prepared at La Mere Poulard which was quite musical as the spoons tapped out a rhythmic beat on the side of the copper mixing bowls. We then had our wine, looking forward to wandering the deserted Mont at night, and listening to the music from the opera. Mont St Michel proved to be even more magical by night. There was hardly anyone about and it was like we had a castle all to our selves. We ate a dinner of rack of lamb. My starter was a plate of assorted seafood which included oysters, prawns, langostinos, tiny shrimp I guess you eat shell and all, periwinkles and whelks. I was not too sure about the periwinkles and the whelks because I actually have some jewelry made out of the shells ........ After dinner we went back out to the ramparts, and as we went out, they were singing “Torreador” at the opera. It was so beautiful and dramatic echoing through the Mont ramparts while the walls were glowing in red light from the back lighting of the stage – wow ! We were actually able to see parts of it through the back of the stage. It was a truly memorable night, felt like we were in another land and time......
Up early with another wonderful breakfast by Isabelle including a fresh baked pear tart - delish. We bid our farewells to Isabelle and Francois, then headed off on our drive from Normandy toward Brittany. We took a scenic route where we detoured to the coast of Normandy first touring through a little seaside town named Cancale whose specialty is oysters and mussels. Next onto St. Malo, a seaside town known for sailing and pirates. We ate lunch on the harbor at a cafe, then drove to Le Mont St Michel. Mont St Michel has quite a history including being used as an Abbey, a fortress and even a prison. It also believed to have been visited by Archangel Michael, the chief of the angels. We kept getting glimpses of the Mont, but the actual arrival was really something. We had to park quite a ways away, but we had all packed small overnight bag so we did not have to haul our luggage. We noticed some kind of activity including staging bleachers outside of the entrance to the Mont. On check in to the hotel we learned they were having the opera, Carmen, there tonight with lit up Mont as the back drop. We checked in around 3:00 PM. Our room is small but looks out at one of the rampart walls and we have direct access out a back door to the ramparts. We then walked around for several hours, and watched the crowds dwindle as they all left. We watched some omelettes being prepared at La Mere Poulard which was quite musical as the spoons tapped out a rhythmic beat on the side of the copper mixing bowls. We then had our wine, looking forward to wandering the deserted Mont at night, and listening to the music from the opera. Mont St Michel proved to be even more magical by night. There was hardly anyone about and it was like we had a castle all to our selves. We ate a dinner of rack of lamb. My starter was a plate of assorted seafood which included oysters, prawns, langostinos, tiny shrimp I guess you eat shell and all, periwinkles and whelks. I was not too sure about the periwinkles and the whelks because I actually have some jewelry made out of the shells ........ After dinner we went back out to the ramparts, and as we went out, they were singing “Torreador” at the opera. It was so beautiful and dramatic echoing through the Mont ramparts while the walls were glowing in red light from the back lighting of the stage – wow ! We were actually able to see parts of it through the back of the stage. It was a truly memorable night, felt like we were in another land and time......